How to Install Wilwood Black Superlite 4R Big Brake Front Kit on your Wrangler

IT IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE PERSON INSTALLING ANY BRAKE COMPONENT OR KIT TO DETERMINE THE SUITABILITY OF THE COMPONENT OR KIT FOR THAT PARTICULAR APPLICATION. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE HOW TO SAFELY USE THIS BRAKE COMPONENT OR KIT, YOU SHOULD NOT INSTALL OR USE IT. DO NOT ASSUME ANYTHING. IMPROPERLY INSTALLED OR MAINTAINED BRAKES ARE DANGEROUS. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE, GET HELP OR RETURN THE PRODUCT. YOU MAY OBTAIN ADDITIONAL INFORMATION AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT BY CALLING WILWOOD AT (805) 388-1188, OR VISIT OUR WEB SITE AT WWW.WILWOOD.COM. USE OF WILWOOD TECHNICAL SUPPORT DOES NOT GUARANTEE PROPER INSTALLATION. YOU, OR THE PERSON WHO DOES THE INSTALLATION MUST KNOW HOW TO PROPERLY USE THIS PRODUCT. IT IS NOT POSSIBLE OVER THE PHONE TO UNDERSTAND OR FORESEE ALL THE ISSUES THAT MIGHT ARISE IN YOUR INSTALLATION. RACING EQUIPMENT AND BRAKES MUST BE MAINTAINED AND SHOULD BE CHECKED REGULARLY FOR FATIGUE, DAMAGE, AND WEAR.

•Installation of this kit should ONLY be performed by persons experienced in the installation and proper operation of disc brake systems. Before assembling this Wilwood front disc brake kit, double check the following to ensure a trouble free installation.

• Inspect the contents of this kit against the parts list to ensure that all components and hardware are included.

• Make sure this is the correct kit to fit the exact make and model year of your vehicle. This kit is designed for direct bolt-on installation to 2007 through present model year Jeep JK Series axle hubs.

• Verify your wheel clearance using Figure 2.

• Verify that the factory axle hub center register diameter and lug pattern match those in the new adapter ring and hat. NOTE: Axle hubs that have been modified with different size studs or lug patterns may require modifications to the new hat that must be performed by a qualified machinist.

• Disassemble the original equipment front brakes: Raise the front wheels off the ground and support the front suspension according to the vehicle manufacturer’s instructions. Remove the front wheels, calipers and rotors.

• Remove any nicks or burrs on the axle hub and upright that may interfere with the installation of the new brake components.

• Clean and de-grease the axle hub, dust shield, and caliper mounting bosses.

Assembly Instructions (numbers in parenthesis refer to the parts list and Figure 1 on the preceding pages):

• The caliper mount bracket (1) should initially be installed with clean, dry threads on the mounting bolts. Orient the bracket as shown in Figure 1 and Photo 1 and install using mount bolts (2) and washers (3). Initially place two .029” thick shims (4) on each bolt between the bracket and upright, Figure 1. Temporarily tighten the mounting bolts. NOTE: The bracket must fit squarely against the mount bosses on the upright. Inspect for interference from casting irregularities, machining ridges, burrs, etc. Later, after the caliper alignment has been checked, the mount bolts will be secured using red Loctite® 271.

• Orient the rotor (6) and the hat (7) as shown in Figure 1 and Photo 2. Attach rotor to hat using bolts (9) and washers (8). Using an alternating sequence, apply red Loctite® 271 to the threads, and torque to 155 in-lbs. For an added measure of security, the bolts may be safety wired using standard 0.032 inch diameter stainless steel safety wire as shown in Figure 3.

Please refer to Wilwood’s data sheet DS-386 (available at www.wilwood.com/Pdf/DataSheets/ds386.pdf) for complete safety wire installation instructions.

• Slide the rotor registration adapter (5) onto the axle register on the axle hub with the smaller O.D. facing outward, Photo 3. 

• The dust shield may need to be slightly bent inward for the new hat/rotor assembly to fit properly, Photo 4. Test fit hat/rotor and bend the dust shield as necessary to allow a minimum of .12” clearance..

• Slide the hat/rotor assembly onto the axle hub, Photo 5. 

NOTE: The hat must fit flush against the axle hub flange or excessive rotor run out may result. Install three lug nuts (finger tight) to keep the hat/rotor assembly in place while continuing with the installation, Photo 6.

• Lubricate the caliper mounting studs (13) with lightweight oil. Initially place two .035” thick shims (15) and one spacer (14) on each stud as shown in Figure 1 and Photo 7. Mount the caliper (10) onto the bracket (1) using lock nuts (11) and washers (12), Figure 1. Temporarily tighten the lock nuts and view the rotor through the top opening of the caliper. The rotor should be centered in the caliper, Photo 8.

If not, adjust by adding or subtracting shims (4) between the bracket and the upright. Always use the same amount of shims on each of the two mounting bolts. Once the caliper alignment is correct, remove the bracket mounting bolts one at a time, apply red Loctite® 271 to the threads, and torque to 75 ft-lb.

•Remove the caliper center bridge pad retainer bolt, nut, and tube from the caliper. Insert the brake pads (16) into the caliper, with the friction material facing the rotor, as shown in Photo 9. Check that the top of the brake pad is flush with the outside diameter of the rotor, Photo 10. If not, adjust by adding or subtracting shims (15) between the caliper and the bracket. After the caliper pad height is set, torque the caliper lock nuts (11) to 30 ft-lb. Secure the brake pads in place with the center bridge pad retainer tube, bolt, and locknut. The locknut should be snug without play in the bolt or tube. Be cautious not to over tighten.

• Temporarily install the wheel and torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specification. Ensure that the wheel rotates freely without any interference.

Once the brake system has been tested and determined safe to operate the vehicle, follow these steps for the bedding of all new pad materials and rotors. These procedures should only be performed on a race track, or other safe location where you can safely and legally obtains speeds up to 65 MPH, while also being able to rapidly decelerate.

• Begin with a series of light decelerations to gradually build some heat in the brakes. Use an on-and-off the pedal technique by applying the brakes for 3-5 seconds, and then allow them to fully release for a period roughly twice as long as the deceleration cycle. If you use a 5 count during the deceleration interval, use a 10 count during the release to allow the heat to sink into the pads and rotors.

• After several cycles of light stops to begin warming the brakes, proceed with a series of medium to firm deceleration stops to continue raising the temperature level in the brakes.

• Finish the bedding cycle with a series of 8-10 hard decelerations from 55-65 MPH down to 25 MPH while allowing a proportionate release and heat-sinking interval between each stop. The pads should now be providing positive and consistent response.

• If any amount of brake fade is observed during the bed-in cycle, immediately begin the cool down cycle.

• Drive at a moderate cruising speed, with the least amount of brake contact possible, until most of the heat has dissipated from the brakes. Avoid sitting stopped with the brake pedal depressed to hold the car in place during this time. Park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool to ambient air temperature. 

COMPETITION VEHICLES

• If your race car is equipped with brake cooling ducts, blocking them will allow the pads and rotors to warm up quicker and speed up the bedding process.

• Temperature indicating paint on the rotor and pad edges can provide valuable data regarding observed temperatures during the bedding process and subsequent on-track sessions. This information can be highly beneficial when evaluating pad compounds and cooling efficiencies. 

POST-BEDDING INSPECTION – ALL VEHICLES

• After the bedding cycle, the rotors should exhibit a uniformly burnished finish across the entire contact face. Any surface irregularities that appear as smearing or splotching on the rotor faces can be an indication that the brakes were brought up to temperature too quickly during the bedding cycle. If the smear doesn’t blend away after the next run-in cycle, or if chatter under braking results, sanding or resurfacing the rotors will be required to restore a uniform surface for pad contact.

PRE-RACE WARM UP

• Always make every effort to get heat into the brakes prior to each event. Use an on-and-off the pedal practice to warm the brakes during the trip to the staging zone, during parade laps before the flag drops, and every other opportunity in an effort to build heat in the pads and rotors. This will help to ensure best consistency, performance, and durability from your brakes. 

DYNO BEDDED COMPETITION PADS AND ROTORS

• Getting track time for a proper pad and rotor bedding session can be difficult. Wilwood offers factory dyno-bedded pads and rotors on many of our popular competition pads and Spec 37 GT series rotors. Dyno-bedded parts are ready to race on their first warm up cycle. This can save valuable time and effort when on-track time is either too valuable or not available at all, Dyno-bedding assures that your pads and rotors have been properly run-in and are ready to go. Contact your dealer or the factory for more information on Wilwood Dyno-Bedding services.