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Installation requires a professional mechanic.
Prior to beginning, inspect the vehicles steering, driveline, and brake systems, paying close attention to the suspension link arms and bushings, sway bars and bushings, tie rod ends, pitman arm, ball joints and wheel bearings. Also check the steering sector-to-frame and all suspension-to-frame attaching points for stress cracks. The overall vehicle must be in excellent working condition; repair or replace all worn parts.
Read instructions several times before starting. Be sure you have all needed parts and know where they install. Read each step completely as you go.
NOTES:
Prior to beginning the installation, check all parts and hardware in the box with the parts list below. If you find a packaging error, contact Superlift® directly. Do not contact the dealer where the system was originally purchased. You will need the control number from each box when calling; this number is located at the bottom of the part number label and to the right of the bar code.
A precision steering alignment, including the centering of the steering wheel, is required in order for the vehicle’s Electronic Stability Program to function properly. Using “all laser” alignment equipment is recommended.
33” – 35” tires can be used without fender trimming.
Maximum tire width = 12.5”; Minimum tire diameter = 17”; Wheel width 8-9”; Minimum backspacing = 4.5”; Maximum backspacing = 4.75”
Stock wheels can be used with 33” tires. If 35” tires are used with stock wheels, 1.5” wheel spacers are required for tires to clear frame rails and allow full turning radius.
2 Door Wranglers - Due to increased driveshaft operating angles and short shaft length, factory rear driveshaft life will be reduced. When replaced, Superlift suggests converting to a dual cardan style shaft. These shafts can be purchased at many driveshaft shops.
An arrow on diagrams indicates which direction is toward the front of the vehicle.
A foot-pound torque reading is given in parenthesis ( ) after each appropriate fastener.
Do not fabricate any components to gain additional suspension height.
Prior to drilling or cutting, check behind the surface being worked on for any wires, lines, or hoses that could be damaged. After drilling, file smooth any burrs and sharp edges.
Paint or undercoat all exposed metal surfaces.
Prior to attaching components, be sure all mating surfaces are free of grit, grease, excessive undercoating, etc.
A factory service manual should be on hand for reference.
Use the check-off box “” found at each step to help you keep your place. Two “” denotes that one check-off box is for the driver side and one is for the passenger side. Unless otherwise noted, always start with the driver side.
NOTE: Save all factory components and hardware for reuse, unless noted.
1) PREPARE VEHICLE...
Place vehicle in neutral. Raise front of vehicle with a jack and secure a jack stand beneath each frame rail, behind the front / lower link arms. Ease the frame down onto the stands, place transmission in low gear or “park”, and chock rear tires. Remove front tires.
Position a jack so that it supports, but does not raise, the front axle.
2) TRACK BAR…
Remove the bolts securing the front track bar-to-axle and frame Save hardware for re-use.
3) SWAY BAR LINKS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS…
Remove and discard the front sway bar links.
Remove and discard the shock absorbers.
4) BRAKE HOSES, WIRING, AXLE VENT HOSE…
If optional extended length Bulletproof brake hoses are being used, these relocation brackets are not required. Install Bulletproof hoses now per separate instructions.
If Bulletproof hoses are not being used, detach the factory brake hose bracket (one per side) at the frame. This bracket holds the connection between the rubber brake hose and the metal brake line.
On each side, a clip attaches the ABS wire loom to the top / inboard side of the shock tower. Remove and discard the clip.
The upper end of the axle vent hose is clamped to the driver side frame rail. Leave the hose attached to frame; simply pull down approximately 3” of hose.
On Rubicon models, the wiring loom for the locking differential is attached to the axle-to-frame upper link. Remove and discard the clip.
5) DRIVESHAFT…
Unbolt the front driveshaft at the front axle then tie it up and out of the way. Do not let the shaft “hang”; this risks pinching / damaging the grease boot at the transfer case end.
6) COIL SPRINGS…
Loosen, but do not remove, the upper and lower link arm bolts at the axle and frame.
Lower the axle enough to facilitate removing the front coil springs.
7) CAM BOLTS…[ILLUSTRATION 1]
One side at a time, remove the bolt securing the lower link arm-to-axle then remove the rear knock-outs that change the opening from a square hole to a slotted hole. A special tool is available for this, or use a die grinder with a small cutting wheel.
Reconnect lower link-arms-to axle using the supplied cam bolts (#26-5704), installed from the outside. Rotate the cams to their “most positive” setting, so that the front axle is shifted as far forward as possible (the bolt head will be in its most rearward position). Snug-up the bolts; do not fully tighten at this time.
8) COIL SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS…
Perform step 8 one side at a time.
Be sure the factory rubber isolators are still in place inside the coil spring tower.
Insert the upper end of the coil spring into the tower first, followed by the lower seat. Be sure that the coils are indexed so they seat properly then raise the axle enough to hold the coil springs in place.
Install shock absorber. Tighten the upper hardware until bushings swell slightly. Install the lower shock bolts, and factory nut. Do not tighten at this time. Apply shock decals. After the shock absorber installation is complete, the jack can be lowered and relocated to allow installation on the opposite side.
9) TRACK BAR…
Set the overall length of the bar to 33-1/8" measured between eye centers. This will serve as a baseline prior to final adjustment. Do not tighten the jam nut at this time.
Position the adjustable end of the track bar in the mount on the axle. Insert the stock bolt to temporarily hold the track bar in place. This end of the track bar must be detached from the axle again in a later step so do not install its nut at this time.
Connect upper end of bar-to-frame using the stock bolt and nut. Do not tighten at this time.
NOTE: Final track bar adjustment and tightening are performed in later steps.
10) BRAKE HOSES…[ILLUSTRATION 2]
NOTE: If optional Bulletproof brake hoses are being used, these relocation brackets are not required.
Attach the appropriate brake hose upper bracket (#55-33-5704 driver side; #55-34-5704 passenger side) to the factory brake hose. Use the supplied 1/4” x 3/4” bolt, facing outward. The washer is used on the bolt head side. Install the supplied Nyloc nut and tighten (76 in-lb).
Carefully re-form the metal brake line (do not kink the line) then attach the Superlift bracket to the factory location. (76 in-lb).
11) SWAY BAR LINKS…
Remove the factory rear sway bar-to-axle links, and install them on the front of the vehicle. (NOTE: Rubicon models must install Kit Box # 5712 per separate instructions.) Attach the swivel (upper) end of the sway bar link-to-bar body (the stud faces inboard) then secure using factory hardware
Attach the lower (eye ring) end of sway bar link-to-axle. The eye ring seats against the inboard side of the mounting tab. The factory mounting bolt installs from the outboard side through the mounting tab then through the eye ring. Position one supplied .5” ID x 1.6” OD x .1875” thick washer onto the factory mounting bolt, install factory nut then tighten (75).
MODELS WITH A CROSSMEMBER DIFFERENT THAN THE ONE PICTURED IN ILLUSTRATION 3 MOVE TO STEP 13.
12) FRONT CROSSMEMBER, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION MODEL ONLY...[ILLUSTRATION 3]
Most models with automatic transmissions are equipped with a transmission pan skid plate / crossmember assembly. The forward lip of the crossmember must be trimmed to create adequate clearance between it and the driveshaft during full extension travel. The trimming process can be accomplished without removing the crossmember. Check for adequate clearance with suspension a full extension (with the front axle “hanging”). Excessive trimming weakens the crossmember.
13) FRONT DRIVESHAFT…
Connect the front driveshaft-to-axle using the factory hardware (81).
14) TIRES / WHEELS...[ILLUSTRATION 4]
Tighten the lug nuts (115) in the sequence shown.
WARNING: When the tires / wheels are installed, always check for and remove any corrosion, dirt, or foreign material on the wheel mounting surface, or anything that contacts the wheel mounting surface (hub, rotor, etc.). Installing wheels without the proper metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the lug nuts to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion.
WARNING: Retighten lug nuts at 500 miles after any wheel change, or anytime the lug nuts are loosened. Failure to do so could cause wheels to come off while vehicle is in motion.
15) INITIAL CLEARANCE CHECK, FRONT...
With the vehicle still on jack stands, and the suspension “hanging” at full extension travel, cycle steering lock-to-lock and check all components for proper operation and clearances. Pay special attention to the clearance between the tires / wheels and brake hoses, wiring, driveshaft-to-crossmember, etc.
Lower vehicle to the floor. Final tightening and adjustments to the front suspension will take place once rear lift is completed.
16) PREPARE VEHICLE...
Place vehicle in neutral. Raise rear of vehicle with a jack and secure a jack stand beneath each frame rail, just ahead of the rear / lower link arms. Ease the frame down onto the stands, place transmission in low gear or “park”, and chock front tires. Remove rear tires.
Position a jack so that it supports, but does not raise, the rear axle.
17) TRACK BAR AND LINK ARMS…
Disconnect the factory track bar from the frame and loosen the axle attachment point.
Loosen, do not remove, the bolts securing both lower link arms to the axle and frame.
Loosen, do not remove, the bolts securing both upper link arms to the axle and frame.
18) BRAKE HOSES…
If optional extended length Bulletproof brake hoses are being used, The supplied relocation brackets are not required. Install Bulletproof hoses now per separate instructions.
If Bulletproof hoses are not used, detach the factory brake hose bracket at the frame. This bracket holds the connection between the rubber brake hose and the metal brake line.
19) WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRES…
On each side, at the driver side upper link arm frame mount, two clips retain the wheel speed sensor wires. Disconnect the forward-most clip from the frame mount.
20) SHOCK ABSORBERS…
Remove and discard the factory rear shock absorbers.
21) EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLE BRACKETS, DIFFERENTIAL WIRING…
Locate the wire bracket securing the emergency brake cables to the bottom of the rear floorboard, above and slightly in front of the rear axle. Unbolt the wire bracket.
On Rubicon models, a wiring loom for the locking differential clips to a bracket bolted to the top of the differential cover. Un-clip the wiring loom then either remove the bracket, or use a mallet to flatten-out the clip side of the bracket. Failure to do so will cause the wiring loom to snag on the bracket during suspension articulation.
22) COIL SPRINGS…
Lower the axle just enough to facilitate removing the coil springs. CAUTION: The driveshaft has a rubber boot on the transfer case end. If the axle is lowered too much, boot bind / damage may occur.
23) COIL SPRINGS…
Install the new coil springs. Rotate the coils so that they seat properly in the coil buckets then raise the axle enough to seat the springs.
24) TRACK BAR BRACKET…
[ILLUSTRATION 5]
Position the Superlift track bar bracket (#55-50-5704) on the factory rear track bar mount and insert the supplied 9/16” x 3-1/4” bolt, from the front, through the Superlift bracket and factory mount. Install the washer and nyloc nut but do not tighten.
Install the two supplied 1/2” x 1” bolts, flat washers, and Stover nuts, in the top two holes. These can be installed from the rear. Tighten (57).
Tighten the 9/16” bolt. (82)
Reconnect track bar using factory hardware. The bar will be tightened in a later step.
25) BRAKE HOSE BRACKETS…
[ILLUSTRATION 6 & 7]
NOTE: If optional Bulletproof brake hoses are being used, these brake hose brackets are not required.
Perform this step one side at a time.
A plastic clip attaches the metal brake line to the frame; remove and discard this clip.
Attach the rear brake hose bracket (#55-21-5704 driver side and #55-22-5704 passenger side) to the factory frame location using the factory hardware. Be sure the alignment tab engages with the hole in the frame. Tighten (95 in-lb).
Attach the brake hose-to-bracket using the supplied 1/4” x 3/4” bolt, washer, and Nyloc nut. Install bolt from the outside, place the washer on the nut side then tighten (95 in-lb).
Carefully re-form the metal line so that it runs along the upper edge of the frame, as shown. The supplied Adel clamps (one per side) hold the re-formed metal brake lines snuggly against the frame to prevent them from potentially making contact with the sway bar links.
26) EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLES, 2-DOOR MODEL ONLY…
The emergency brake cables are routed beneath the vehicle body (along the transmission tunnel), above a frame crossmember then down to each wheel. On each side, disconnect the cables at the axle and re-route them to below the frame crossmember. Reattach cables-to-axle.
27) EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLES, 4- DOOR MODEL ONLY…
[ILLUSTRATION 8]
The emergency brake cables are routed beneath the vehicle body (along the transmission tunnel), above a frame crossmember, then through a wire hanger bracket that is attached to the floorboard. Detach the two emergency brake cables from the wire hanger bracket then detach the wire hanger bracket from the floorboard.
Position the wire hanger bracket at the center of the frame crossmember, as shown. Using the wire hanger bracket as a template, mark the location for the two mounting holes to be drilled. Drill the mounting holes using a 13/64” bit. Attach the wire hanger bracket-to-frame crossmember using the supplied 1/4” x 1/2” self-tapping bolts and tighten (75 in-lb).
On each side, disconnect the emergency brake cable at the axle and re-route them to below the frame crossmember. Insert each emergency brake cable into the relocated wire hanger bracket then reconnect emergency brake cables-to-axle.
28) SWAY BAR LINKS …
Drill out the holes in the ends of the stabilizer bar to 1/2".
Lubricate the supplied bushings and sleeves with a light, Silicone or Lithium based grease; then install 3/4” ID bushings and 1/2” ID sleeves into the bottom (eyeing) end of the Superlift sway bar links (#716244).
Apply anti-seize to the top (stud) end of the Superlift sway bar links. Install the 1/2” jam nut onto the link then the 90° swivel end. Adjust the swivel end to reach a center of swivel-to-center of eye length of 11-1/4” then tighten the jam nut.
From the factory, the sway bar links mount outboard of the anti-sway bar body with their upper studs facing inboard. The Superlift links install facing the same direction as factory.
First position one 1/2” SAE washer onto the link stud, then insert stud through the sway bar body attachment hole. Position remaining 1/2” SAE washer, Nyloc nut and tighten (80).
Attach the Superlift links’ lower ends using the factory hardware. Tighten (75).
29) SHOCK ABSORBERS…
Install shock hardware / boots. Install shocks using the factory bolts. At this time, tighten only the upper shock mount bolts (37). Apply shock decals.
IF VEHICLE IS 2 DOOR OR NOT EQUIPPED WITH EVAPORATIVE CANISTER, MOVE TO STEP 32.
30) EVAPORATIVE CANISTER…[ILLUSTRATION 9]
The evaporative canister is located on the driver side between the transfer case and rear axle. Loosen the rear single bolt of the evaporative canister but do not remove.
Remove the front two bolts. Measure from the center of the inside hole “A” towards the center of the vehicle 2”, then to the rear of the vehicle 9/16”, mark and drill a 5/8” hole.
Pivot the evaporative canister to the driver side of the vehicle so the hole “A” is now over the “B” position and reinsert the factory bolt. (75)
Insert the remaining factory bolt trough the newly drilled hole. (75) Tighten the rear bolt. (75).
31) TIRES / WHEELS…
Install the tires and wheels as per step 15.
32) INITIAL CLEARANCE CHECK, REAR…
With the vehicle still on jack stands, and the suspension “hanging” at full extension travel, check all components for proper operation and clearances. Pay special attention to clearance between the tires / wheels and brake hoses, driveshaft, etc.
33) HARDWARE TIGHTENING SEQUENCE…
Remove jack stands and lower vehicle to the floor. The suspension is now supporting vehicle weight.
Rear track bar, both ends (125).
All rear link arms-to-frame and axle (125).
Front / lower link arms-to-frame and axle (125). NOTE: Be sure that eccentric cam bolts are positioned as per step 7.
Front / upper link arms-to-frame and axle (75).
All shock absorber eyes (56).
34) FRONT TRACK BAR ADJUSTMENT…
Verify that the tires (not the steering wheel) are pointed straight ahead. Position a plumb bob, or similar tool, against the inside edge of the frame. Measure the distance between the line of the plumb bob and the inside edge of the wheel. Record this measurement, then repeat the procedure on the other side.
Compare the two measurements; the goal is to make them equal. If the driver side measurement is greater than the passenger side, the track bar needs to be lengthened. If the passenger side measurement is greater than the driver side, the track bar needs to be shortened. Disconnect the lower (adjustable) end of the track bar from the axle and make the appropriate adjustments.
Tighten the jam nut firmly then reattach the bar-to-axle (130). Tighten the bar-to-frame bolt (130).
WARNING! No more than 3/8” of Heim end threads can be exposed once the jam nut is tightened.
35) CENTER THE STEERING WHEEL…
IMPORTANT: The steering wheel must be centered prior to moving the vehicle, or an Electronic Stability Program sensor may be activated resulting in a dash light and a warning chime that requires 20 plus ignition key cycles to clear.
Start engine and steer wheels straight ahead. Loosen the nuts on the drag link adjustment sleeve then rotate adjuster until steering wheel center is achieved.
36) FINAL CLEARANCE and TORQUE CHECK...
Cycle steering lock-to-lock and inspect the tires / wheels, and the steering, suspension, and brake systems for proper operation, tightness and adequate clearance.
37) HEADLIGHTS...
Readjust headlights to proper setting.
38) SUPERLIFT® WARNING DECAL...
Install the WARNING TO DRIVER decal on the inside of the windshield, or on the dash, within driver’s view. Refer below to: Important Product Use and Safety Information / Warnings.
39) ALIGNMENT...
Realign vehicle to factory specifications. A precise alignment, including the centering of the steering wheel, is required in order for the vehicle’s Electronic Stability Program to function properly. A laser alignment is recommended.