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Rock-Slide Engineering 3rd Gen Step Sliders (21-25 Bronco 4-Door)Find parts that fit my vehicle

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Review & Install - Rock-Slide Engineering 3rd Gen Step Sliders Video   See All Product Videos (1)
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$2,419.99 pair

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    $499.00
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    7 miles away · 76 Reviews ·
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      (1)

      Merideth: If you want a premium setup when it comes to getting in and out of your 2021 or newer Ford Bronco, these Rock-Slide Engineering 3rd Gen Step Sliders will be a great option to check out. Now, this set here will be for the Bronco owner who wants the best of both worlds between effortless accessibility and tough protections at the side, whether they're taking their Bronco off-road or they're just driving it day-to-day. Now, these will be especially helpful if you've added a lift or bigger tires and you want the better access with the drop step, but you don't want the step hanging down all the time for clearance purposes if you are taking your Bronco off-road or just overall style.Now, getting into the features, when the doors are shut, these are gonna take on the appearance of the factory rock rails with the minimal look and full coverage protection to that very vulnerable rocker area. Now, this won't offer just side protection, you are going to get a lot of underbody protection as well, so you can ensure that you're covered from the side at any angle. However, when the doors are open, the actual stepping surface is going to swing down about 12 inches from the body, offering you and your passengers an easy way to get in and out of the Bronco. The stepping surface itself will also have a slim running board style and a textured surface to make sure it's not slick on those rainy days. Now, one big feature that I do really like about this setup is the fact that the wiring harness and everything here is going to come with a kill switch. So when you do have the doors off the Bronco, you won't have to worry about the step hanging down. And when you pop the doors back on, these will function just like normal.Again, these won't be your average PowerStep thanks to the tough construction made of a 10-gauge steel. These will also have a tough black powder coat on top to prevent any rusting on the surface and keeping that brand-new look for years to come. Now, the internals are built tough too with stainless steel and aluminum components to prevent any corrosion or rusting on the inside, which is very helpful when going through water or off-road terrain. And not to mention, this is going to be a complete plug-and-play system that doesn't require any drilling or modification. It mounts right into the body mounts as well as that pinch weld, so it is going to be pretty straightforward as far as the install is concerned.Price-wise, these will be one of the more premium options coming in at around $2,500. Now, that's to be expected considering that not only the function of the PowerStep is offered here, but the protection that you're getting with this set in the meantime is substantial compared to other PowerSteps. Now, owners past I've seen have really taken a toll on these off-road, and they are true to that rock slider name with the strength that these boast. Not to mention, the step is going to be pre-assembled for you, and you get a plug-and-play wiring harness taking all of the question out of the install, making this set well worth the extra couple of bucks.Now, even though this install is a pretty straightforward one, this is still gonna get a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter because you do have a decent amount of things to do when it comes to getting this onto your Bronco. Now, it should only take you about two hours to get the job done, and I would recommend having an extra set of hands on deck because these are going to be pretty heavy, but otherwise, again, very straightforward. And one of our guys here in the shop is gonna show you the details and that process step by step, so that wraps it up for me. Let's go ahead and check it out right now.Man: For this install you will need an impact, ratchet, 7, 10, 13, shallow, and deep 15-millimeter sockets, 4-millimeter Allen wrench, clip removal tool, angle cutters, and tape.What's up, guys? Today, we're going to be installing some side steps on our Bronco, so let's get started. So our first step in this process is going to be to grab our wiring harness and lay it out so that it is oriented in the right spot for our driver's side and passenger's side crossover. So we're going to grab our driver's side and passenger and just kind of lay it out like this, making sure our connectors come back to the back of our driver's side door. And then our main harness going up to our engine bay is oriented in the right spot on our driver's side. So we can just have that all in order so we can start to secure it.Our next step is going to be to remove the fuse from our harness to protect everything while we are installing it. So we'll go ahead and pop our cover off and remove the 20-Amp fuse. And set this aside because we will be replacing it later. Now, we can grab our harness and come underneath to our frame rail and find our factory harness here, and we're going to loosely attach our harness to our factory harness with zip ties running along our frame rail. And remember to leave these loose for now so we can adjust our harness if we need to as we're installing everything. So then we'll work our way up to the middle of the vehicle here and install another one. And one more right before our driver front door opening. And we're leaving plenty of slack in all of these right now so our harness can still move freely and it's just holding it in place. So if you find it hard to feed this through and your wires are binding up and separating, you can go ahead and grab some tape. Just wrap this around the end of your harness here to your connectors. It doesn't have to be anything fancy. Any kind of tape will do. But this will keep the end of your harness all in one piece so nothing's getting caught. Go ahead. Fish this through.So once you have your harness pushed through around here behind your wheel well, you'll be able to fish it up behind your inner fender liner, and go ahead and push that up through into your engine bay and then grab it from the top. So you should be able to locate your harness in your engine bay about right where your brake master cylinder and all of your lines come out and down into the car, and just go ahead and pull that right up like this. Now, you can tuck it behind the fuse box if you wish, but for demonstration purposes, we're going to run ours straight up in here. So we can go ahead and remove the tape from our connectors. Discard that. We'll go ahead and expose our positive terminals here. And we can go ahead and hook our positive terminal up. Using our 10-millimeter socket on our ratchet, we'll remove this 10-millimeter nut here. Go ahead and install our positive ring connector. And then reattach our 10-millimeter nut, tighten that back down with our 10-millimeter socket. Go ahead and tuck that down, close that back up. Then we can come over to our negative side here, and we're going to remove this 10-millimeter nut. We can install our negative terminal. And reattach our 10-millimeter nut again and tighten that back down with our 10-millimeter socket. And then we'll tuck our wiring back down so that nothing is up and going to get caught on anything, but we will have to come back and reattach our fuse once we have this complete. And while you're here just make sure nothing in your harness is touching any extra hot parts, any moving parts, or anything like that that could damage your wiring.So now we can come to our rear driver's side door, and we can go ahead and remove our middle kick panel here. And to do that, we'll simply just grab onto it, pop it out of its clips. Go ahead and set that aside. We're also gonna loosen this one up, and again, this just pops right out. You don't have to fully remove this one, but it will help to just be able to move that out of the way. And then we'll go ahead and pull, carp it up a little bit. That will expose this drain plug here in our floor, and we're going to go ahead and remove that. And so to remove this drain plug, we're simply going to reach underneath, and go ahead and give it a push in the bottom. We'll pop that right out. Then you can go ahead and do the same thing for your passenger's side.Next, we can grab our provided grommets and a razor blade or a sharp knife, and we'll go ahead and make a slit. And now we have a nice opening for our wires to come through. Now we can go ahead and grab our harness, and go ahead and push our door switch connectors as well as our rocker switch connectors up through our grommet. And this is easy, one at a time. Don't try to force all your connectors through at the same time. Switch connectors here. Go ahead and pull all those through. Make sure your harness doesn't get tangled. Now we can come back to our hole where our drain plug was located. Then we can go ahead and feed those wires we just pushed to our grommet up through the bottom here. Get those pulled up through. Once those are all the way up into your cab, go ahead and reach back down. You grab onto your grommet itself. Go ahead and install that into the body.Now we're going to go ahead and leave our rear door sensor connector back here in the back driver's side, and that is your green and black one. And we're going to take our other door sensor as well as our switch connectors and run those up to the front of the vehicle. To do that, we're going to take this loose panel here, we're going to tuck our wires, and we can also push our harness up next to the front seat just to get everything kind of moving towards the front of the vehicle. And then we can tuck wires under the panel here. And we'll continue this as we move to the front of the vehicle.Now we come to our front driver's side door. Again, we're going to keep tucking our harness under our kick panels here. Let's remove along. We'll just run this wire up next to our footrest there. And our front door sensor will be about right here.Now we come to our steering column panel, and we're going to go ahead and just pull this down. To do that, you can go ahead and reach right in here next to your light switches and just pop this right out, and that should just come right down just like so. Then we can go ahead and grab our 7-millimeter socket on our ratchet and remove this outer lower bolt right next to our hood latch release. We'll go ahead and remove that bolt. Take that out. And then we can go ahead and grab our switch bracket. Slide that up into place right where you took that bolt out. Then we'll go ahead and put that bolt right back in. Tighten that back down again with our 7-millimeter socket on our ratchet. Once you have that tight, we can go ahead and push our steering column panel back up into place.Next, we'll grab our switch wires. Just pull those right through the front here. Don't need to pull them all the way through, just enough so you can work. Now we can go ahead and grab our switch itself. And there are two different types of switches that can come with this, either a two-prong or a four-prong. We have our four-prong here. So if we look at the back orientation with these extra slots at the bottom, go ahead and come to the right side here. Take our red wire connector. Slide that onto our top prong all the way in. And then our black wire comes right below that. Once those are connected, go ahead and feed this back through. Push our switch into place with the oriented red wire up top still and the black wire at the bottom. Just go ahead and push that in so up is on, down is off. Then we can tuck the rest of our wiring back behind our panel here.So now that we have all of our wiring in place on the driver's side, it's time to send our passenger's side harness over and get ready for connection as well. So we're going to grab our main connector for our crossover and tuck that up behind our frame rail here. And we're going to round it all the way across, with our frame rail going over to our passenger's side. Once we get this over here, it's going to follow your crossmember over the fuel tank to your passenger's side. It'd be a little difficult to get your connectors through. Just work with it. Send it over your fuel tank, making sure nothing gets caught up as you do so. Once you have your harness over your fuel tank and across your crossmember, go ahead and pull it through all of your connectors out on the back of the vehicle here. Once you have that done, we'll come over and get it properly routed the rest of the way.Once we have it over, it's just much easier. Go ahead and try to get everything situated on this side and get your connectors tucked up in here. And once you get one to come up through over your frame rail, go ahead and tuck the rest of them up over the last connector. And make sure all of your wires are out through and ready for connection. And once you have these up and over and across to your passenger's side, you can go ahead and repeat the same process we did with our grommet for our drain plug as we did on the other side.So now that we have our harness set on the driver and passenger's side and we know we don't need any more slack, we can go ahead and snug down our zip ties to secure our harness. Just pull those tight, make sure you have no loose part of your harness hanging down excessively. You can add more zip ties if you do feel the need. And then you can trim off the excess of your zip ties using angle cutters if you choose.So depending on the trim package of your Bronco, you may have some factory brackets located here behind the pinch weld in the middle and the rear that need to be removed in order to install these particular side steps. Our model does not have them currently, but if you do, you just want to go ahead and pop those out, again, out of the middle and rear of your pinch weld on the backside. Next, we can go ahead and remove our two pinch weld bolts right here for our fender. And to do that, we'll grab our 10-millimeter socket on our impact. Go ahead and run those out. Now these are covered in paint, so you want to be very careful and secure your socket onto it before just going headway.Next, we can come to our front and rear body mounts, and we're just gonna loosen those up to allow for about a quarter inch of space for our washer to move up and down. Again, we're not fully removing them, just loosening them. And we're gonna grab our 15-millimeter socket on our impact to go ahead and do that. And then we'll go ahead and do the same thing for the rear body mount bolts.Now we can go ahead and install our pinch weld spacer. And to do that, we're going to grab our driver's side bracket. This is with the angled end facing up and out towards the front of the vehicle. And our solid hole here, we're going to use our 4-millimeter hex head. Go ahead and get that into place. Then we can reuse our rear body mount bolt here. Go ahead and tighten that up with our 10-millimeter socket on our impact. Our front one, we'll tighten up with our 4-millimeter Allen wrench.Now we're ready to install our front bracket onto our body mount bolt here, and that's going to be our slotted ones with our welded nuts on the sides, and our flares are going to go facing down towards the ground. We're going to slide this in between the head of the bolt and the washer. It will slide in just like that. We're just gonna snug it down a bit. We're not gonna fully tighten it yet with our 15-millimeter socket on our impact. Once you feel it start to get a little tight, go ahead and back it off a quarter turn, and you still have wiggle room to make any adjustments when we install our step rail. Next, we can go ahead and grab one of our provided 15-millimeter flange nuts, and go ahead and find this threaded hole right here. If you notice how your harness is routed here, it's basically gonna be at the curve of the harness right there. Go ahead and set that loosely in place, and then grab our number two bracket, which will be this angled drop-down bracket with four Nutserts and a slotted top. Go ahead and slide that in just like so. And just like our first bracket, we'll grab our 15-millimeter socket on our impact. We're just going to run this in snug, but we're not going to tighten it down all the way just yet so we have room to make any adjustments.Now we're ready to mount our three and four brackets, and that will go where the previously mentioned factory brackets potentially had to come out. So to do that, these look like this with the tap up top, slanted bottom. They're gonna face out the front of the vehicle like this. So we'll grab 2 more of our 15-millimeter flange bolts. Go ahead and get these hand-tight. These don't really have any room to move, so we can go ahead and fully tighten these down. We'll go ahead and grab our 15-millimeter socket on our impact for this bottom one here. Tighten that down.So now it's time to install our rear mount, and that'll come right back to where we loosened our rear body mount bolt here. And it looks just like your number two mount, and it's gonna slot in, again, like our front mount did in between our bolt head and our washer for our body mount. It is gonna be a little bit of a pain to get in, but you just push it in the slots and work it in there. And then we'll just snug that back down, still have room for adjustments.Now we will have to remove this lower little trim piece here. Some models have it, some models don't. Ours does. So to have enough clearance for our bracket to go all the way back, we need to just pop this off. And to do that, we'll grab our clip removal tool and take this push pin out here, or you can just pull on it and get it kind of started. Then we'll go ahead and grab our 7-millimeter socket on our ratchet to remove our screws. And then to secure our fender liner back in place, we'll just go ahead and put our 7-millimeter screws right back in. And then we'll tighten them back down again with our 7-millimeter socket.So before we install our step slider, we'll have to grab our rubber trim here and install that along the inner edge. I'll get our step rail. And if need be, once you get to the end, you can go ahead and trim off any excess you may have. Now, while it is very advisable to have an extra set of hands around to help you do this job, if you're tackling it by yourself, it is also very handy to have a floor jack because this side step is pretty heavy to handle by yourself and get it up into place. So you can go ahead and set your side step up centered on your floor jack as best you can get it. And then this will help you maneuver it into place without risking injury to yourself or damaging your product.Before we go to mount our step rail, we're going to send our connector for our motor here down through this cutout to make it easier to make our connection and nothing will get pinched in here while we mount our step bail. And once we have that done, you can go ahead carefully. And again, using our floor jack here, it will aid us in lining up our studs into the holes in our pinch weld. So once you have your studs lined up with your pinch weld holes, you can go ahead and get those set into place, and then we'll add our nuts on the backside to support our step slider.So now we can go ahead and grab our 13-millimeter bolts and flat washers, and we can get our bottom mounting brackets in place. And now we can get all four of our mounting bolts in place. As you can see, we already have a couple in. And then we'll go ahead and tighten those down with our 13-millimeter socket on our impact. And we're not going to tighten these all the way down, we're just going to run them in. And then we can go ahead and get the rest in place, and you can repeat this process for your other brackets going down the step rail.Next, we can go ahead and come and grab our connector for our motor. Go ahead and plug that in. And we can run our main connector through this little cutout into the step rail. I know it's hard to see here, but that connector comes through and then plugs into our circuit board on the step rail itself. As you can see here, this one. This last connector here is for an optional light kit that does not come with your step rails and must be purchased separately, which we are not installing today. So we'll go ahead and tuck this connector up into our step rail and keep that out of the way for any further installation. And then we can go ahead and install the rest of our bolts on the bottom and tighten them down with our 13-millimeter socket on our impact. And then go ahead and repeat for the rest of your hardware.Now we come to our front of our driver's side door here. We're just going to pop up a little bit of this middle panel. And we're going to go ahead and grab our door sensor here, and this is going to go right in here like this. And then we'll tuck our wiring back through under this panel and connect it to our door sensor. And to do that, we use our alcohol pad to clean the back of our sensor, which we've already done. We'll add our adhesive back in here, peel that off. Go ahead and get this right in here, tucked in nicely with our rocker panel. We'll go ahead and pull this back as well as our other panel here. And we go ahead and plug this in to our door sensor here. Go ahead and tuck that right back under. Reinstall our panels. And once you have that done, you can go ahead and repeat this process for all of your other doors.So now we can install our magnet onto our door here. And to do that, this is kind of a tricky process, but we're going to line it up with where we believe our sensor will hit it and we have adhesive backing on it and our magnet is facing towards our sensor. So if you could picture yourself swinging the door closed, it is going to go right here at the arch, the bottom arch of your door. Once you think you have it in the right spot, we're going to go ahead and reinstall our fuse into our harness and test it out. Now we can go ahead and install our 20-Amp fuse into our harness. Then we'll turn our switch to the on position and test out our side steps.So when you turn your switch to the on position with your door open, your side steps should come down like so. Then we'll go ahead and shut our door, and it should retract. Then you want to give it a minute. You don't want to cycle it too quickly because this does have a fail-safe to prevent it from going out and in too much. So we'll go ahead and do that again. Hold your door open for a moment. When you shut your door, it retracts.So now that we have everything in place, tested, and lined up and all of our hardware is in, we're gonna go back under the vehicle and make sure our mounting brackets are tight to the car, and we're gonna use our 15-millimeter socket on our impact to go ahead and tighten those down. So we'll start with our front body mount here. And then we can come to our next few brackets, and they're all 15 millimeters, so you can just go ahead and snug those all the way down, and then end up at your rear body mount.All righty, guys. That about wraps up our review and install of our Rock-Slide Engineering 3rd Gen Step Sliders for your '21 to current Bronco 4-door. Thanks for watching, and as always, for everything Bronco, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

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      2021-2023 Bronco Rock-Slide Engineering 3rd Gen Step Sliders Review & Install

      2021-2023 Bronco Rock-Slide Engineering 3rd Gen Step Sliders Review & Install

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      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Third Gen Step Sliders
      • Smart Motor Technology
      • Step Deploys 12 Inches Down When Door is Open
      • Step Retracts to Sit Flush with Body of Step Slider When Door is Closed
      • Sleep Mode Controls Battery Drainage
      • Ten-Gauge Steel Construction
      • Internals of Step Slider Feature Stainless Steel and Aluminum
      • Textured Black Powder-Coat Finish
      • Made in the USA
      • No-Drill Installation
      • One-Year Warranty on Finish and Electric
      • Fits 2021-2025 Bronco 4-Door Models

      Description

      Cutting-Edge Steps. These Rock Slide Engineering 3rd Gen Step Sliders represent the latest in side step technology. With extraordinary motorized capabilities and a sturdy design, these step sliders will keep your Bronco ready for whatever is next.

      Construction and Appearance. These Rock Slide Engineering 3rd Gen Step Sliders are made from 10-gauge steel, while the internals are composed of stainless steel and aluminum. They are finished in a textured black powder coat to look amazing and fight off corrosion.

      Get Your Motor Up. These step sliders employ smart motor technology to work properly no matter the conditions. The step will deploy 12 inches down from the body of the slider when the door is opened, then the step retracts to sit flush with the body of the step slider after the door is closed. The sliders even have a sleep mode to cut down on battery drainage.

      Installation. Putting these Rock Slide Engineering 3rd Gen Step Sliders on your Bronco isn't too challenging. They use the factory mounting points for a no-drill installation. There is a stand-alone wire harness so you won't need to splice or re-wire.

      Warranty. There are 1-year warranties on the finish and electronics.

      Application. These Rock Slide Engineering 3rd Gen Step Sliders fits 2021-2025 Bronco 4-door models.

      Fitment:

      Details

      Rock-Slide Engineering BD-SS-300-BR4

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      Installation Time

      (approx) 2 Hours

      Difficulty Level:

      Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.

      Installation Guides

        No guide available for this part yet.

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Step Sliders
      • (1) Wire Harness
      • Magnetic Door Sensors
      • Mounting Hardware
      4.7

      Customer Reviews (27)

      Questions & Answers

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      Will It Fit My Bronco

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      • Everglades 4 Door - 22, 23, 24
      • First Edition 4 Door - 21
      • Heritage Edition 4 Door - 23, 24, 25
      • Heritage Limited Edition 4 Door - 23, 24
      • Outer Banks 4 Door - 21, 22, 23, 24, 25
      • Raptor 4 Door - 22, 23, 24, 25
      • Wildtrak 4 Door - 21, 22, 23, 24

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