2018-2025
2007-2018
1997-2006
1987-1995
1976-1986
Installation Time
(approx) 3 Hours
Difficulty Level:
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
Installation Guides
No guide available for this part yet.
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OPR Dana 44 Rear Axle Shaft (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)Find parts that fit my vehicle
Item J167413
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3 Reviews
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$264.99 each
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Product Videos
(1)Merideth: If you have gone a little bit too hard on the trail, and snapped a rear axle, or simply just doing some preventative maintenance before you take your JK off-road, this OPR Dana 44 Rear Axle Shaft will be for you. And I do wanna mention that the Rubicon Dana 44 axle and the Sport and Sahara Dana 44 axles are different, and this specific one will not fit the Rubicon models. With that being said, this will be a direct replacement, and a more affordable one compared to the dealer premium, if you have taken some damage off-road, like I said, had an axle fail on you, wheeling or not, or, you want a refresh to your drivetrain, to maintain confidence when you're driving on the road or on the dirt.This will be a direct bolt-in replacement, featuring the same build as the one out of the factory, with a 30-count spline for the Sport and Sahara models. Now, while it's not going to provide a huge performance improvement, like upgrading the spline count would, this will be sure to refresh the hub, the bearings, and replace the previous and probably the tired old shaft with one that's going to offer better longevity than your current one. In addition to the shaft replacement, the bearing or hub replacement here will also offer a big improvement, and it may not be noticeable, but they can get pretty beat up over time, especially from microcontaminants getting in. And this is just going to clean the slate, making sure that you get all of that performance back that you once had when it came out of the factory.Now, this is made of a steel construction, matching the OE construction to a T. And I do wanna reiterate that this will be 32 inches in length, will not be for the Rubicons. They are going to be slightly different in sizing. And, also, the spline count is going to be 30 spline, not 32. It will also come with the same five-by-five bolt pattern, not requiring you to upgrade your wheels or make any other modifications, and will be completely pre-assembled out of the box, so you don't have to do any additional work or reuse any components.Now, this will be about $300 per shaft, and a much more affordable solution to the factory or dealer pricing, while still offering you comparable quality. It will also be much more affordable as far as the solution goes, compared to upgrading to a larger spline count, which would increase the performance, but would require other very pricey modifications on top of a pricey axle. Now, I think if you need a fix and a refresh to your components, and you're content with the performance that you've seen so far, and you just want to save some money while getting a refresh for your rear axle, this is going to be a great option for you.Now, the install here will be for the JK owner with some mechanical experience, getting a 3 out of 3 wrenches on the difficulty meter. And with the right tools and setup, it should only take about three hours or so to get this bolted in. Now, at this point, we can head over to our shop, check out a detailed breakdown on how you can get this into your JK, whether you are doing this yourself at home, or you're just simply curious about the process. So, that is going to wrap it up for my review. Let's go ahead and get to the install.Man: For this install, you will need various ratchets, 8 and 13-millimeter sockets, an 18-millimeter ratchet wrench, an 18-millimeter wrench, some gear oil, brake clean, a slide hammer, also, not shown here is a jack and jack stands, and a bucket.What's up, guys? Today we're gonna be doing an actual shaft on our Wrangler, so let's get started. All righty, guys. So, first, we're gonna need to remove our brakes and rotor, so we're gonna go ahead and grab a caliper hanger tool, hook that up here outside, so we'll be able to hang our caliper. And we're gonna grab a 13-mill socket on our ratchet, pop our caliper off first, to hang it up out of the way. So, we'll go ahead and pop these caliper bolts out. Now, you wanna make sure you crack both of these loose before removing one or the other, because your caliper will tend to torque on you if one's not in. Go ahead and pop these out. Now, you wanna support your caliper when you remove these. We'll go ahead, pop our caliper off. Could hang that up out of the way. Now we'll go ahead and remove our pads. So, these simply just kind of pop out of place here. We can set these off to the side for now. Now we're gonna go ahead and remove our two caliper bracket bolts with our 18-millimeter ratchet wrench. Now that we've got those loose, we'll go ahead and run them out. You wanna support your bracket while you're doing this. Makes it much easier to get your bolts out. Go ahead and pull our bracket off, and set it aside.Next, we can go ahead and pull off our rotor. So, we'll go ahead and grab that. Now, you wanna make sure your parking brake is not engaged, or the shoes inside the parking brake drum here will not allow you to remove this rotor. Go ahead and pop that off. So, our axle shaft assembly is held in by four studs on the backside of our hub here, so what we're gonna need to do is remove the nuts holding that in, as well as our ABS sensor, which is also on the backside. Then we're gonna go ahead and be able to pull our shaft assembly out. We don't need to mess with the inner drum brake assembly, so we'll go ahead and go to the backside, and start taking all that off. So, now we're gonna come in with an 8-millimeter socket on our ratchet, and remove the retainer bolt for our ABS sensor. So, go ahead, get that loose. Go ahead and remove that, and set it aside. And we're gonna gently work our sensor out of position. Now, you don't need to unplug this. It would be a good time to clean it up if you so choose. Just use something that's not gonna damage it. We'll go ahead and set it back here. Now, you can unplug this and get it all the way out of the way, but it just needs to be back far enough away from that ABS ring to not damage it on removal.All righty, guys. So, now we're gonna remove the four mounting nuts for our plate here. We're gonna grab our 18-mill wrench. Now, you can use a ratcheting wrench, but this is in a pretty tight space. So we're just gonna use a regular closed-end wrench. Go ahead and bust these loose. We're gonna go ahead and get them all loose, and then we'll fully remove them. We'll go ahead and get the two on this other side here as well. We'll get the two on the other side as well. All righty, guys. So, now we're ready to pull our shaft assembly. So, we've got our slide hammer here. Go ahead and put that on a couple of our studs, and we're just gonna use our lug nuts here. It'll work just fine to hold this. Make sure you get this locked down really good. Now, if you don't have a slide hammer, you can put your rotor back on here backwards, with the hat facing in, put a couple lug nuts on it, and use a dead blow mallet to go ahead and pop this off, so you don't damage your rotor, but a slide hammer is gonna be best for you. So, we'll go ahead and start popping this out. Now, we do have a bucket under here, because you are gonna lose a little bit of gear oil in this process. Okay. Once that starts coming out, we can go ahead and pop our slide hammer off. Now we can go ahead and pull our axle shaft assembly out. Go ahead and kind of let that drain pretty good in here. We can set our old axle shaft aside.So now, once you have that out, obviously, some diff fluid's gonna be leaking out. You wanna make sure you clean up your brake shoes on the inside here. So, we've got some brake clean. Gonna go ahead and...we don't wanna spray it into our diff assembly, but we wanna go ahead and clean this up, best we can. And for the time being, we'll go ahead and stick our shop towel right here. It's kind of absorbing that excess fluid that's gonna come out. Now, the last thing you wanna do is make sure you remove this old outer bearing race here. Now, they should be in hand-tight. Chances are you'll be able to get it out by hand, but you may need a bearing puller or something to pop this out. Luckily, ours is only in hand-tight. Go ahead and work this out. Now, this is gonna have to come out pretty evenly. So, we'll go ahead and pull that bearing race out. Set it aside. So, now we can go ahead and insert our new shaft into our differential. We'll slide that in gently. Now, we will have to pick up on it in order to get it lined up. We're gonna go till it stops here. So, we've got our splines lined up here. Gonna go ahead and gently ease this in. We'll push our retainer plate in, just like so. Make sure our studs are facing through. And you wanna make sure that's fully seated, so give it a nice push. Make sure that's locked all the way in there. Now we can go ahead and reinstall our 18-millimeter lock nuts. And we're gonna get all four of these on. And we'll go ahead and tighten these back down.Now we're gonna go ahead and tighten these nuts back down. Now, we're gonna do it in a cross pattern, as to pull this in evenly. So, we'll start up here, again with our 18-mill wrench. Then we'll go here to our bottom left one, as we sit. We'll come back over here. And finally, this one up here. Now, once you have all four of them tightened down, you wanna come back around, make sure they're not going any farther. Then you always wanna refer to the manufacturer torque spec for all of your hardware. Now we'll go ahead and slide our ABS sensor back into place. Get that lined back up. Reinstall that 8-millimeter bolt. And we'll go ahead and tighten that back down, again with our 8-mill socket on our ratchet. Then we can come back out and give one more little cleanup to our hub area and our dust guard. Now we'll go ahead and take our brake cleaner, and again spray this down. Let that drain for a second. Wanna wipe all this off. So, now's a good time to clean everything up and make it look nice. Then we can go ahead and begin reinstalling our brakes.So, now we can go ahead and reinstall our brake rotor. Go ahead and line that up on our wheel studs. Make sure that seats. Then we'll go ahead and reinstall our caliper. So, first, we'll go ahead and grab our caliper and pad bracket. Go ahead and reinstall those 18-millimeter bolts on the backside. So, we'll line this up here. Go ahead and get these bolts in. Now we've got our first one started. We'll go ahead and get our second one on. Go ahead and run these in by hand. And we can again grab our 18-millimeter wrench. Go ahead and tighten these down. Now we'll go ahead and reinstall our pads. Line those right back up in their slider spots. You can see our pad backing plate is coming off. In this situation, you probably wanna go ahead and replace them, or find a way to keep this on. Now we'll go ahead, grab our caliper. Line that back up. And get that lined back up. And we'll reinstall our 13-millimeter bolts holding this in place. Then we'll go ahead and tighten that back down with our 13-mill socket on our ratchet. Now we'll go ahead and show you how to top off your diff fluid.All righty, guys. So now, since we lost some of our differential fluid, you're definitely gonna wanna top that off, or service your differential fluid completely. And the way these work is there is a drain plug down here at the bottom, and a fill plug up here at the top. Now, these are both fitted for a 3/8 drive ratchet insert. So, you can go ahead and pop that ratchet in. And if you're just topping it off, you wanna go ahead and pop this out, and then fill your differential with the appropriate gear oil. You can use a bottle and a hose like this and tilt it up, to put that in there until the fluid starts basically just running out of this. That's how you know the level is good. Then you wanna go ahead and reinstall your plug, clean that up. And if you're servicing your differential fully, go ahead and drain it all out, put that back in, clean it up, and then do the same process as shown here.All righty, guys. That about wraps up our review and install of our OPR Dana 44 Rear Axle Shaft, for your '07 to '18 Jeep Wrangler JK. Thanks for watching, and as always, for everything Wrangler, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Jeep Wrangler JK OPR Dana 44 Rear Axle Shaft Review & Install
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Product Information
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Features & Specs
- OE Style Replacement
- Differential Type: Dana 44
- Axle Type: Rear Axle Shaft
- Steel Construction
- Axle length: 32 Inch
- Spline count: 30
- OE Replacement part number: 68003272AA 44700268 20044491
- Fits 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK Models, Excluding Rubicon
| Brand | OPR |
| Type | Dana 44 |
| Placement | Rear |
Description
OE Style Axle Shaft. If it’s time to replace an existing worn-out or damaged rear axle, consider an OE style replacement from OPR. Buying a quality replacement Axle will save you time, money, and headaches over trying to track down a good one from a wrecking yard.
Steel Construction. Designed using the original OEM data from Jeep, this OPR OE Style Replacement Rear Axle Shaft is manufactured from steel for superior strength and amazing durability.
Direct Bolt-On Replacement. OPR's Rear Axle Shaft was designed as a direct bolt-on replacement for your Wrangler’s factory axle. Professional installation is highly recommended.
Application. This OPR Dana 44 Rear Axle Shaft is designed to fit 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK models, excluding Rubicon.
Steel Construction. Designed using the original OEM data from Jeep, this OPR OE Style Replacement Rear Axle Shaft is manufactured from steel for superior strength and amazing durability.
Direct Bolt-On Replacement. OPR's Rear Axle Shaft was designed as a direct bolt-on replacement for your Wrangler’s factory axle. Professional installation is highly recommended.
Application. This OPR Dana 44 Rear Axle Shaft is designed to fit 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK models, excluding Rubicon.
- Differential Type: Dana 44
- Axle Type: Rear Axle Shaft
- Axle length: 32 Inch
- Spline count: 30
- OE Replacement part number: 68003272AA 44700268 20044491
OPR J167413
CA Residents: 
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Installation & What's in the Box
Installation Info
What's in the Box
- (1) Rear Axle Shaft
3.7
Customer Reviews (3)
Review Summary
Installation Time: Full Day
Installation Cost: $300.00
Jul 9, 2024
2013 Rubicon - ebpannell
Installation Time: Afternoon
These do not fit a Rubicon
These were sent to me I had to return them because I have a Rubicon and these won’t fit the splines are incorrect. They were of good quality and price but won’t work with the Rubicon
Fit 1/5
Quality 5/5
Bang For Your Buck 5/5
Jul 2, 2023
2013 Wrangler - EarlM
Installation Time: Full Day
The cheep option
I bought 2 to easily replace leaky seals. I stripped one of the studs. Once back together I drove less than 1/4 mile with a very bad grinding sound. Took off the one with the sound to finde the bearing race turned into a powder. The bearings just fell out. Took them both off my jeep. Cleaned the old ones and put some sealant around the seals. My advice, don't buy these. Spend a bit more for better quality.
Fit 5/5
Quality 1/5
Bang For Your Buck 1/5
Aug 11, 2023
Tsiers2000
Easy to install
Once I got the bearing pressed on, it went right in. Uses a threaded wheel stud which caught me off guard. But overall pretty pleased.
Fit 0/5
Quality 0/5
Bang For Your Buck 0/5
Reviews of OPR Drivetrain products have an average rating of 4.8 out of 5
Mar 13, 2025
Review shared from OPR Constant Velocity Driveshaft Joint Repair Kit (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
2008 Wrangler -
Rebuild front drive shaft.
It was a nice cv replacement part but was suppose to come with a tool to put it on the Jeep and gaskets to keep grease in bearings . But they were missing. So spent a lot of time making a tool and sealed grease with silicone gasket material. I finally got it. Everything seems to work fine now.
Mar 3, 2025
Review shared from OPR Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
2014 Wrangler -
Wheel Sensor Problem
The hub assemblies are fine. Appear to be good quality. No fitment issues. However, after about 200 miles my 2014 JKU started throwing codes for the right front wheel sensor - U140A. I already had a bad rear wheel sensor, which I've neglected to change, but now with 2 bad sensors so she's stuck in limp mode. Back to the cold garage floor I go.
Feb 26, 2025
Review shared from OPR Dana 30 Front Axle Shaft; Passenger Side (07-12 Jeep Wrangler JK)
2007 Wrangler -
Received quickly
Item ordered was received within 3 days of ordering, in good shape. Haven’t had time to install but the shipping was quicker than anticipated.
Jan 6, 2025
Review shared from OPR Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
2008 Wrangler - GaryRamer
Hub assembly
The customer service was great. Fits great! Easy assembly. Installed in a couple of hours. Great product.
Nov 29, 2024
Review shared from OPR Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
2011 Wrangler - Tommydepot
Front wheel bearing
Fast delivery , amazing price and well packaged . Had a toner issue with Front drivers side wheel . This Wheel bearing was a perfect fit and and the rubber grommets on the new ABS sensor wire was exact match to the old sensor which made running the new ABS wire quick and easy . The abs clip is hidden behind shock tower plate with no slack , but new one fit in perfect and was able to lock red tab ! Prob solve and all abs /toner issues are gone . Highly recommend this item if have the same issues , this price can’t be beat !
Aug 26, 2024
Review shared from OPR Transfer Case Shift Cable (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
2012 Wrangler - dwalt421
works like new
way better than the cheaper one i bought from ebay that broke after 1 use
Jul 22, 2024
Review shared from OPR Transfer Case Shift Cable (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
2007 Wrangler - Sdepew
Great fit on all of their items
This shifter cable was perfect fit and functions. These guy know how take care of whatever your needing
Jul 2, 2024
Review shared from OPR Transfer Case Shift Cable (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
2012 - Badhabitzjk
Finally got 4x4 back!
Spent almost a year without having 4x4 and once the cable was installed I can finally be invincible in the trails, sand and mud! It had been working great!
Apr 29, 2024
Review shared from OPR Constant Velocity Driveshaft Joint Repair Kit (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
2011 Wrangler - Chads2011
Fitment
The fitment was perfect! Simple easy hourISH install depending on individual. Would buy another as backup until 1310s arrive.
Mar 19, 2024
Review shared from OPR Front Axle Hub Assembly (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
2014 Wrangler - Hozilla
Perfect Deal!
These hubs look and feel incredible. For the price and quality, I don't think they could be beat. I haven't driven on them yet as I'm still in the middle of my build but they look and feel SOLID!
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