Installation Time
(approx) 4 Hours
Difficulty Level:
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys. I'm Eric with Extreme Terrain. Today I'm gonna give you my review and installation of this Deegan 38 rear bumper with tire carrier, pre-drilled for backup sensors in a black finish for all 2018 and later Jeep Wrangler JLs. Now, I think this bumper is really gonna appeal to the Jeep Wrangler owner who's looking for a rugged solution to carry a larger off-road tire, as well as better departure angles, and better protection on their rear end, as well as getting some styling to match all that off-road capability.Now, probably one of the most common if not the most common upgrades that Jeep Wrangler owners do to their Jeeps is to get a larger set of wheels and tires. Now, those tires come with added capability in off-road situations, snowy conditions, muddy conditions, and all that. However, they also bring with them added weight. In fact, a lot of Jeep owners out there add additional things to their tires, like tools or external trash bags that are gonna add even more weight to the rear end of their Jeep. Now, frequent off-roading, especially on rough trails or corrugated dirt roads are gonna put a lot of extra wear and tear on your Jeep. With all that added weight back there, you could prematurely wear out the hinges and the factory tire carrier. Now, this bumper from Deegan 38 with this tire carrier is gonna resolve all those issues. Not only that, it can accommodate up to a 37-inch tire.Now, in addition to that tough tire carrier, you're also getting a solid rear bumper with all the design features that Deegan 38 is known for. You get this wrap-around design that comes around the corners and protects those corners from any collisions or other impact damage. You also get these angled ends that are gonna give you better terrain and obstacle clearance and better departure angles. You're also gonna get these solid heavy-duty D-ring mounts. Now, this bumper and tire carrier is made from heavy-duty steel plate. As you'll see in a little while when we do our stock versus aftermarket comparison, you'll see that you're getting a huge upgrade in protection over your factory bumper. Not only that, this bumper is protected with this two-stage black powder coat that will protect against weathering and corrosion. And I think this is a really well-thought-out design that went into this bumper and tire carrier. In addition to some of the things I already mentioned, you also get the ability to add in a trailer hitch and some other things that Deegan 38 does that I like because of their attention to detail.They give you these dress-up covers right here that you can leave on. You can also take them off if you're gonna add some auxiliary lighting. But if you don't have that lighting, it kinda dresses up the bumper a little bit, gives it a more finished look. On top of that, they mount the tire carrier with bump stops on the back with rubber pads so that if you're like me and you're kinda airheaded you open up your tire carrier part of the way, and then you'll go to open your tailgate, instead of banging into your tire carrier, it's gonna hit those rubber bump stops. I think that's really well thought out and shows an attention to detail that Deegan 38 is known for. Now, as far as price goes, guys, this tire carrier and bumper comes in right around $1,600. Not the most expensive kit out there these days, but it definitely does put it in the premium category compared to its competitors. But I think, as you'll see in this video, there are a lot of well-thought-out designs and tough construction put into this bumper entire carrier, I think justifies that price.Now, as far as the installation go, guys, we have this rated at two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, and I think that's a fair rating. There is extensive assembly work and some wiring that you're gonna have to do with this bumper. However, it's nothing overly challenging and you should be able to accomplish it at home without any issues. Now, in this video, you're gonna see us lifting the Jeep up on a rack, that's merely to get some better video shots for this production. You in no way need that for this installation at all, you can leave it down on its own tires and complete this entire installation like that.Now, with that being said, some basic hand tools and maybe some additional power tools is all you're really gonna need to complete this installation. I would legitimately budget about four hours of your time to get this job done. If you've done this kind of work before, you should be able to easily shave some time off that, but there is quite a bit of assembly and some wiring that will need to be done to get this thing 100% complete. All right, so let's go take a look at the tools we're gonna use and go ahead with our installation. All right, guys, the tools needed for this install. We're gonna start over here, we have a 18 and 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench, we have 19, 18, 17, 16, and 10-millimeter crescent wrenches, we have a 35-millimeter socket, a T8 Torx bit, a T20 Torx bit, a 5/8 Allen key, a 1/2 inch, 3/8 inch, and 1/4 inch socket wrench, a variety of sockets from 21-millimeter down to 12-millimeter. We're gonna be using some electrical tape, a couple of socket extensions, a rubber mallet, air ratchet wrench, trim removal tool, a flat-head screwdriver, a small Phillips-head screwdriver, an air impact gun, and a grease gun.All right, guys. First step in our installation is to get the spare tire off. Now, most of you out there probably still have your factory shroud that goes on over your backup camera. You are gonna have to remove that first using the Torx set that comes with the Jeep. After you do that, you can go ahead and loosen the lug nuts, take them off, and get the tire off the back. We have an aftermarket wheel on our Jeep, so I have an aftermarket socket for that. You're gonna have to find the appropriate one that fits the lugs on your spare tire carrier.All right, guys, we have the tire off, so go ahead and open your tailgate. What we're gonna do next is remove this plastic panel here so we can get at some wiring harnesses behind it. All right. These are the three wiring harnesses we're gonna disconnect because eventually when we remove our factory tire carrier from the tailgate we're gonna pull these back through the hole in the tailgate. And to get at it, you can just pull these out. You just have these little plastic retaining clips here, makes it easier to kinda get your hands on it, and pinch the lock tab and pull them apart.All right, guys. Next, the three wiring harnesses we just disconnected, they come out through the tailgate here, and just kinda grab this rubber gasket and then we're going to pull these out. By using a 13-millimeter socket, you've got a total of eight bolts holding the tire carrier to the tailgate, four on each side. Now we're gonna take these two 13-millimeter bolts out here. All eight of these are 13 millimeters, if I didn't say that already.All right, guys, and the last one, just make sure you don't back it out all the way. If you back it out all the way, this thing might fall off the tailgate, so, just be slow and careful. Now that loosened, I'm just gonna take it out. All right. With our factory tire carrier here, guys, we're gonna take a T25 Torx bit here and here and back out these bolts.Okay, guys, with those bolts out, then this whole bracket comes loose out the back, including the housing for your backup camera. All right, guys, now we're gonna remove the rest of these T25 bolts around here so that we can access the wiring inside. All right, now, with these T25s backed out, guys, just go ahead and work this out. It's a little snug. And to help yourself out, you may wanna grab a trim removal tool, kinda walk around the inside there, and it'll pop it loose.Right now we have two T25s right here holding our third brake light in, we're gonna take those out. Once you have that out, you can pull on this and disconnect it. We'll reassemble this later with the Deegan 38 kit. All right. Last step on our disassembly here is to get our backup camera off of the factory housing. To do that we're gonna remove these three tiny T8 Torx bit screws, here, here, and here. You can just separate this plastic retaining clip on the back here and unplug your wiring here. All right, now we have this all freed up and we'll end up mounting it on our bumper here in a moment. So, I'm just gonna keep that plugged in and keep our components together. All right, guys, next, we're gonna remove this plastic trim piece inside the wheel well. We have three eight-millimeter bolts here we're gonna take outAnd so, we can remove this bracket here, it's right by the tire. We're gonna take these two 16-millimeter bolts off and then two more back here. But first, we're gonna start on these. All right, next, we're gonna go after these two bolts here that are securing the bumper to the frame rail, these are 21 millimeters. I'm gonna take the bottom one all the way out, and I'm just gonna back out the top one just so we can keep the bumper secure in place. And as you do this, guys, as you see I'm wrenching right here, just be careful not to have your thumb wrapped around here, it's gonna catch on that exhaust pipe, it might cut you up, sting a little bit. Depending on the condition of your Jeep, you might have to soak this with some PB Blaster or something to help loosen it up. We work on these trucks all the time, so, our experience is a little bit different.All right, I just have that backed out, guys, and I'll leave that up there for now. All right, and just like we did on the other side, guys, we've got three bolts here that are 8 millimeters. On our truck here we actually only have two, but you should have three. All right, guys. Once again, you should have two bolts right here that are 16 millimeters. Our Jeep only has one left on here and I'll take that out right now. All right. Now, the other end of this metal bracket here we've got two more 16-millimeters, we're gonna take those out. And when you do the last one just make sure you're holding the bracket because it will fall. Now, on this side, guys, because we have the tow hook here, we have two additional bolts on the underside we're gonna have to take out. I'm using an 18, on your Jeep they may be 21s right here or up here, but we have 18s on our Jeep.And this one's tight up top, I'm gonna try using a ratchet wrench here. All right, guys, once you get this backed out, your tow hook will come off. The bumper is kinda hanging there, so, just kinda keep a hand on it, we still have a bolt on the other side that's loose, we're gonna take out now. All right, guys, let's disconnect it from the frame here, and we're gonna unplug the wiring harness. It might help to get a little screwdriver underneath this tab right here. All right. Now, with all our hardware removed and our license plate lamp harness disconnected, you can go ahead and remove the bumper.All right, guys, now we have our factory bumper off the Jeep. I wanted to set up on the stand here next to our new Deegan 38 bumper. Now, what really stands out is the styling. You're getting a much more aggressive look, and if you already have a front bumper on your Jeep, this is really gonna complete that look. What I like about how Deegan 38 styles their bumpers is they taper them up on the ends, that's gonna give you better obstacle and terrain clearance and avoidance when you're out there in the trails. The other thing you'll notice is that this bumper comes with pre-drilled holes. If your Jeep has backup sensors, you'll be able to mount them in there. Ours does not, but you do have that option. You also have the option for cube fog lights on the ends there. These grates simply come off with those Allen bolts and you can mount some additional LED lighting in there.Not only that, the construction with the Deegan 38 bumper is a lot more durable. You have nothing but thin steel behind a plastic cover with your factory bumper, this Deegan 38 bumper is thick steel. It's about an eighth of an inch thick, I measured it. It also has a very thick and durable application of black matte powder coat that's gonna protect this bumper against weathering and corrosion. You also have these very solid D-ring mounts here and here for recovery when you're out on the trails. I also lined up a couple of the additional parts we're gonna be mounting here.You can mount a trailer hitch on this, it's also very sturdy, and we'll show you how to do that. Our Jeep today did not come with a factory tow hitch, but we'll be able to install this one and show you how that works. And obviously, the main reason you're probably buying this bumper is that big A-frame tire carrier. Now, what I really like about this design over other tire carriers is, where the hinge point is on the far right, it comes out level and parallel to the bumper. Some tire carriers come up at an angle and they almost kinda partially block your right-hand rear tail light. I don't like that, it's not a very clean look, and it kind of might inhibit some functionality of your brake and turn signals. So this stays out of the way, it's a much more clean design. All around, this is a very sturdy bumper, you will be able to mount up to a 37-inch tire on this, so, you've got a lot of options and a lot more durability and high-level protection for the rear end of your Jeep.So, with that said, let's go ahead and mount this on and put our tire carrier together. All right, guys, now we're gonna mount the spindle for the tire carrier into the bumper, we have to do that before we put the bumper on the Jeep. And as you can see, the threaded holes here on the spindle line up with these four holes here, you slide it in through the top, and then you find four 18-millimeter bolts in the hardware included with the bumper, and we're gonna put one in each of these holes. I'm gonna just get those started by hand. As you can see, each one gets a washer. Now we'll tighten them down with our air wrench.All right. Now we have the spindle for our tire carrier all mounted up, let's move over and we'll install the trailer hitch. All right, guys, the first part to getting our trailer hitch mounted is use the backing plate here and grab the four long 18-millimeter bolts out of your hardware kit. We're gonna slide this backing plate behind the frame rail and then feed these bolts up from the back pointing outward. Once you get them started at either end, it'll hang by itself, and then you can feed the other two in. All right, guys, now we're just gonna mount our hitch piece up top here on our four bolts. And then we get a washer on there, and these are also 18 millimeters, these nuts.All right. Now, you have two holes in the bottom to secure the hitch to the backing plate. Grab a couple of these 18-millimeter bolts from the kit and do the same thing on the other side. Now we've got these all started, we're gonna go ahead and tighten them up. As you can see, guys, it's a little tight in here with our muffler, so I grabbed the ratchet wrench, and we'll use our crescent in here.All right. Something I wanna point out real quick before we put our bumper up on, guys, is that, from the factory, you have permanently mounted, like, nuts that are threaded in here in the frame rail. You do not have that on the passenger side. So, this Deegan kit comes with two nuts permanently welded to this bracket, and then we simply slide it inside the passenger side frame rail. That way, our bolts will have something to thread into when we come up underneath. All right, at this stage, guys, you're definitely gonna want help from a friend. Once you get it lined up on there, then you're gonna take a bolt or two to secure it in place so the bumper does not fall off.These are 21-millimeter bolts, guys, we're gonna put two in the bottom here. All right, guys, it's pretty much the same thing on the passenger side, we're gonna have a total of four bolts, two going up in here. We've already got one started there that was our safety bolt to hang the bumper on and this one right here. And again, we're using our 21-millimeter socket.All right, guys. Now, before we can mount the tire carrier on the bumper, we have to pack in the bearings. Now, there's two sets of bearings that come in the kit, there's a larger one and a smaller one. For this part, we're gonna use the larger one. And it comes in four separate pieces: this metal sleeve, the bearing, a black metal washer, and then this rubber gasket that's gonna go in last. So, first thing we need to do is we need to mount this in here, and to do that, I'm gonna show you, we're gonna pound it into place, it doesn't slide in easily. So we're gonna slide this in first, kinda line it up. You can use a tap or screwdriver and just kinda tap around the edges, or if you have something that's about the same diameter, like this large socket, go ahead and pound it in. All right, guys. Now, if you can see there, the metal ring is flush with that first edge, and we used the 38-millimeter large axle socket, it worked pretty well for us.All right, I got a grease gun here, I'm just gonna put some grease into my palm. I'll start off with that much there. And we're just gonna grease around the outer edges of the... Like that. And just to make sure we have all our bearings covered with a coating of grease, and then drop it into place. All right, then you take your black metal washer here, drop that in. All right. And just kinda press into place this little rubber seal and tap it in with a rubber mallet until it's nice and flush. All right, guys, now we're gonna mount this plate here. What this does is provide a smooth surface for the lock pin to glide upon. And we're gonna line it up with the hole here so when you open up your tire carrier, that locking pin will drop into place and hold the tire carrier open. It'll go on just like this, and that's how it'll look once we get it on there. On the backside of this, we have a sticky side.All right, guys. Now, with the bottom bearing set in place, we can now put the tire carrier on the hinge pin. And we'll just rest it right there. All right, guys, just like on the bottom side, on the top side we have a bearing pack. Again, this is the smaller of the two bearings, and it comes apart in four sections just like the bottom side, with the addition of the castle nut we're gonna use to clamp everything down. First step here is to take this metal sleeve and drop it into place. Now, ours dropped in nice and easy. If you do have to pound it in, kind of a handy thing here, this is a 35-millimeter nut, so if you have a socket for that, that's great, because that's also the same diameter as that metal sleeve if you do have to kinda give it a couple of taps to get it to seat properly. A little trick there. Next thing is, we're gonna grease up our bearing and drop that into place, and then the washer on top of that. All right, guys, I just got a little grease in my hand here, and we're just gonna make sure you get some across all the bearings. All right, and then go ahead and drop the black washer on top.Then next, we're gonna take our castle nut and we're gonna attach it. Get it started with my fingers here and we'll get our wrench on there and cinch it down tight. All right, guys, we have our 35-millimeter socket here, we're gonna drive it down. And once that's in place, just grab this cap here and seat it into place. All right, guys. So, how the tire carrier secures to the bumper and locks in place is with this locking mechanism, and it will come in and lock into this bracket. Now, this bracket is adjustable back and forth, left or right. So we wanna mount this first and see where it lines up before we tighten that bracket down.So we go ahead and put this in, grab this bolt with a washer and another washer on the other side. Now we have lock nuts that will hold it in place. The nut is a 17-millimeter and the bolt side here is a 16. All right, guys. Now we got three 16-millimeter bolts, put a washer on them and drop them down. And we have three 17-millimeter lock nuts we'll cinch up from the bottom. Tighten up with a washer and a lock nut. We're gonna get this started by hand on the bottom. All right, guys, in the inner side here, I have a 17-millimeter deep bolt socket and a 16-millimeter crescent wrench up top holding the bolt securely. All right, guys, as you can see, this is really tight up in here, so, what we're gonna do is I'm gonna gun it from the top, I'm going to put a 17-millimeter crescent on the bottom.All right. Next step, guys, we're gonna mount the tire carrier base to the tire carrier arm, and to do that we're gonna use two 18-millimeter bolts, here and here. Now, as you can see, you have multiple options, and that is to line this up higher or lower depending on the tire size of your Jeep. Smaller tires, you probably wanna mount a little bit lower to keep your center of gravity down. Obviously, if it's a bigger tire, you need to clear the bumper, you're gonna raise it a little bit higher for those bigger tires. But for right now I'm gonna mount it right about in the middle. For the backside, throw a washer on there and then we have these lock nuts, these are 19-millimeter.I'm gonna throw an 18-millimeter crescent on here at the closed end, and just to hold the bolt in place, and the 19-millimeter socket for the nut. Do the same thing for the bottom. All right. Now, grab two more bolts like the ones we just used to mount this piece and the lock nuts, and grab this piece, slide it in. And as you can see, there's some adjustability forward and back, that can help accommodate different widths of wheels. If you need more clearance, you can adjust this out or in if you want a tighter fit. All right, guys, now we're gonna mount this third brake light onto the bracket. Find the one that has these four holes here and just line them up. We have a couple of guide pins on the bottom of the brake light, slide in, and we're gonna take two T20 Torx bolts and feed them in. And then I'll tighten them down.Okay. Now we have our third brake light mounted on this bracket. Grab this bracket here, this is the one that's gonna mount to the top of the tire carrier swing arm. It will sit inside like that. And we have a couple of Allen bolts here, we're gonna use a 5/32 Allen key. And we have 10-millimeter lock nuts on the other side, let's get them started. Now, as you can see, guys, this is adjustable so you can adjust the height of your third brake light. And that, again, is to account for different tire sizes on your tire carrier. All right. Now that we've got our third brake light assembly all put together, we're gonna mount it up top here with two 16-millimeter bolts. It's already threaded up here so you don't have to worry about any nuts.All right, guys. Now, Deegan 38 designed this bumper to have a couple of bump stops, we're gonna use this bracket here. And with the tire carrier closed and latched uptight against the door, I'm gonna place this on there. It's adjustable like that depending on how much of a gap you have between the tire carrier and the tailgate. We're gonna take these 16-millimeter bolts, get them started.All right. Now, this kit also comes with these rubber bump stops that are gonna go on the bump stop bracket. They just have an adhesive backing. And it gives you six, so, we can put three per side. All right. Now, just repeat that same exact step mounting the bracket and the rubber bump stops on the other side. Okay, now, we swung the tire carrier open guys, we're gonna mount our license plate bracket here to these two holes using these 5/32-inch Allen bolts.All right, guys. Now we have most of the heavy-duty hardware and big nuts and bolts items put together and mounted on our Jeep, now we're gonna get to the finishing stages where we're gonna do some wiring and cleanup. What I'm gonna do right now is show you what this kit comes with for license plate lights, and that's these two LEDs. They come with independent wires. And when you separate them out of the kit, you've got one wire for each light, and they have unfinished ends. So, I'm gonna show you how to put a connector on here. And the easiest thing to do, in my opinion, is to splice into your existing license plate light wiring harness that's underneath the driver side rear corner of your Jeep. Now, to do that, you're gonna have to splice in a couple of female connectors, one to the ground, one to the power supply line, and then you can put male connectors or spade connectors onto the wiring coming from your LED lights.And we're gonna have one power supply, one ground for each light. You can splice in the power from each light together into one connector and the ground into one connector to make it nice and easy. But before we can get to that, one thing that's worth noting is the way these lights mount up to your license plate light or license plate frame is with this nut and washer, which has to fit over the end of your wiring. Now, you wanna pull these off and thread this wire through the license plate bracket before you do any additional connections onto the wire, because if you put the connector on first, you're not gonna be able to get this nut and washer off or on the wiring. So let's get these off first and then we'll run the wire through the license plate frame, and then we'll put the hardware back on so we can secure the LED light ends to the license plate bracket. And then I'll bring the wiring back up on the table and I'll show you how to put these connectors on.All right. When you guys feed the wiring through, make sure you have your license plate ready because the hardware that's mounting the LED light to your license plate bracket is also what's gonna be holding your plate on there as well. Make sure your light element is pointing downward and then feed on your washer and nut, and just run all those back to the light. I'm just gonna make them finger-tight for now, we'll tighten them up in a minute.And now I'm gonna run these wires back up to the table and will show you how to get them fixed up with connectors. All right, guys, as you can see, each wire for each LED light has a red wire and a black wire, we use that for power and ground. What I'm gonna do is strip it back far enough that we can then connect each red to each other and each black to each other so we have one spade connector for each. Strip back these small wires.All right. I'm just gonna take each black and twist them together. All right, once you get those wires kinda twisted together and fed into your spade connector, just go ahead and crimp them down. Give them a little tug, make sure they're not gonna come back out. These are heat-shrink casings on here, so I'm just gonna do that real quick. And if you want, you can give it a wrap or two of some electrical tape if you wanna add a little bit more security to that. Using a similar technique to what I just showed you, you can grab a couple of female connectors, one for the power line, which might be a white wire, like it is on our Jeep, and then one to the ground line, which is a black wire on our Jeep. And all I did was I fed the wiring from our lights around the back of the spindle to stay clear of the action of the tire carrier, and then across the top of the frame rails. And there's enough slack to get it over here and then just simply plug these in. And once you get these connected, you should probably throw some wraps of electrical tape on this just to protect it against weathering and corrosion. I'm not gonna do that because this isn't gonna be a permanent install for us, but that's all plugged up, and we'll demonstrate those lights for you in a minute.All right. And also included in this kit is an extension line for your backup camera. It's gonna be the wiring with the pink connectors. Now, an easier way to probably do this, to be honest with you, would've been to feed this through before I mounted this on. However, it is what it is. But, I found an easy workaround if you do what I just did, just feed the connector in through this back hole right here behind the bolt and slide it forward, and then just reach in there with some needle-nose pliers and bring it out. This is the end that will plug in to our backup camera eventually. The kit also comes with an extension line for your third brake light, so, go ahead and grab that. And this end connects up here, place and then just push that lock pin up and it's secure. We're gonna run it down here and have it meet up with our backup camera line. And then we have some plastic sheathing in the kit that we're going to run these inside of for its protection.All right, guys. Now, grab this bracket out of the kit and your backup camera, we're gonna mount it in here. We've got these really tiny screws and nuts, they're gonna hold this in. Be sure to have one of these tiny screwdrivers, that's gonna help you a bunch. I'm just gonna leave that there for a sec while I grab a tiny washer and tiny nut. I'm just gonna grab that tiny nut with needle-nose pliers, and I'll tighten it down. I'm gonna repeat that for the other two.All right. Now that our camera is mounted on this bracket, we're just gonna bring it up here, feed our extension line through. Again, take up any slack. You need to take your outer protective bracket, slide it on. And while we do the rest of the install, I'm just gonna throw one lug nut on here just to hold it in place. All right, guys. Now, this kit also comes with several of these they're kinda like zip ties, they have an adhesive backing on them. And what we're gonna do is use these to route our wiring. Now, our brake light and our backup camera wires will come down here and we'll take them to the hinge point and then we're actually gonna mount them towards the bottom edge of the tailgate so that the wiring can swing with that. And as you remember, that wiring has to go back through a hole in the tailgate to meet up with the factory wiring harnesses. All right, I'm just gonna stick one on here. And this is where the backup camera and brake light wiring will meet.And then, from this point down, we're gonna put on some plastic sheathing to protect these wires. Just go ahead and grab your sheathing and get it started up here. And if somehow you break the sheathing or you don't have enough, or you end up cutting it and then realizing you cut it in the wrong spot, you can always pick up more of this real cheap at any auto parts store.All right, guys. Now, when you take the sheathing down and you get to one of the connectors, obviously, this is not gonna fit inside. You can do this a couple of ways, you can just connect it and then run it back in, or you can snip this off. Either way you wanna do that, it's up to you, you could very easily plug this back up like that. And then we'll run the wiring back inside, and then just secure this with some duct tape. You could do it like that. Or, like I said, cut the sheathing to here, but you're gonna end up wrapping it with electrical tape anyway, it might just be easier to do it this way. And we've had to do some splicing in the past, that's why we got this big bunch of electrical tape on there now. All right. I already threw a section of electrical tape on here, and I'm gonna put one on here, and then I'll just kinda center this, hold it on to the conduit and then you can finish by wrapping this up completely with some tape just to kinda protect this connection before you continue routing the rest of the wiring into the conduit. But this piece right now will just kinda secure that and keep the wiring from popping back out of the conduit.All right, guys, now, before we snug up the wiring here with these little zip ties, I recommend opening your tire carrier to its full extent, and then feeding the wiring back through the hole in the tailgate and then plug in your grommet so that way you know exactly how much slack you have to work with and how much you have to kinda clean up and hold up with these zip ties.I find that it's good to put one of these right here, kinda center it, and then I'll make sure that this centers it on your pin here so it's not gonna get caught or pinched at all. There's gonna be plenty of clearance as you close your tire carrier, so you don't have to worry about that, but just keep things snug. And then from here, we're gonna branch across and start sticking them to the bottom of the tailgate.You might've noticed earlier in the video, guys, I disconnected this wiring harness. I didn't actually need to do that, so I'm just gonna plug that back in right now. Now we'll plug in our brake lights and backup camera harnesses. You just grab your trim panel, this is the last thing to do here, line up your pop clips. All right, guys, we are almost there. Last couple of things, details really, before we can call this job 100% done, a couple of things I wanna point out, and something I like about how Deegan 38 goes into thinking out their designs and puts finishing touches on that maybe some other companies do not, they even give you these little rubber plugs here to kinda dress up these open holes. It just kinda cleans it up a little bit, not a real big deal, but it also help keep water and everything out of the inside of the frame or your tire carrier.Another thing you may wanna consider here at the end of the job is to make sure all your wiring is tucked up nicely, any exposed connectors getting taped up to protect them from the elements. And one thing I do wanna point out is this bracket here is not held on by anything at this point, it's kinda loose. So, just to be careful with this product and our new installation, I'm gonna have a friend help me put the tire on. And once you get it up on there and secured with lug nuts, then everything will be secure. And of course, we'll tighten that up with a tool before we hit the road.All right. So, that does it with our review and installation of this Deegan 38 rear bumper with tire carrier, pre-drilled for backup sensors for all 2018 and later Jeep Wrangler JLs. For all things Jeep, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Jeep Wrangler JL Deegan 38 Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier; Pre-Drilled Review & Install
1H1:21
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Brand | Deegan 38 by Mammoth |
Bumper Type | Full Width |
Bumper Location | Rear |
Bumper Material | Steel |
Bumper Finish | Black |
Bumper Winch Mount | No Winch Mount |
Bumper Fog Light Fitment | No Fog Lights |
Freight Notes. Freight items can only be shipped within the continental 48 states, no expedited methods. What is freight shipping? Your Answers are Right Here!.
Fitment:
Deegan 38 by Mammoth J138941-JL
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Installation Info
Installation Time
(approx) 4 Hours
Difficulty Level:
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
Installation Guides
What's in the Box
Review Summary
Installation Time: Afternoon
Jan 8, 2024
Very disappointed
Tire carrier sags. The wiring for the tire carrier is janky to say the least. I regret the purchase of this system.
Dec 11, 2020
Review shared from Deegan 38 by Mammoth Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier (18-25 Jeep Wrangler JL)
The Compliments
This build has a fan club. I think it's the combo of the wheels, the lift, and the bumpers. I'm a happily married dude, but I've never been approached so many times asking about the Jeep. But fair's fair, and I get slow downs from the dudes as well, and, even at an intersection, I heard some shouting and some young men were shouting "Nice F'n Jeep!" I have a neighbor with a stock Jeep, and I gotta tell ya, when I see the Deegan Bumper vs. the Stock rear bumper, I'm going to have to hand it to the Deegan. I'm ok with the heft, it is hefty. but it's holding the 35s very nicely. No bumping or rolling around. Solid. Not sure how it handles on the trail yet, but so far so good. Just a beauty. And the compliments are nice.
Jul 30, 2020
Review shared from Deegan 38 by Mammoth Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier (18-25 Jeep Wrangler JL)
Looks amazing but...
I love the look of deegan 38 rear bumper with tire carrier I purchased but Tire carrier sags to one side and you must lift it up to secure to latch. I must say I’m disappointed to due me not being able to lift up the tire carrier from were it sags, it’s too heavy for me.
Feb 22, 2020
Review shared from Deegan 38 by Mammoth Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier (18-25 Jeep Wrangler JL)
Not worth the price I paid.
I purchased this bumper because It has a tire carrier and figured it would be nice to get the weight off the door. The good, it has a great finish. The bad, the carrier sags badly and needs to be torqued often other wise it rattles, the instructions are pretty much useless, I had to tap every single welded nut that was in the kit and tap them. The bolts, nuts, and washers are all unlabeled and dont tell you anything about them. It also doesnt tell you the best way to route the camera wires, they also do not have a component kit for when the wire to the camera gets cut or damaged. The only reason it got a 3 star rating was because if the incredible tech support extremeterrain offers with it.
Jan 21, 2020
Review shared from Deegan 38 by Mammoth Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier (18-25 Jeep Wrangler JL)
Great bumper for over sized tire!
Bumper is made well and the fit is very good. Instructions are as usual lacking enough details for the new DIY crew. But it is a install that can be done alone, but better with a helper. The price isn't bad compared to others I looked at online.
Dec 20, 2019
Review shared from Deegan 38 by Mammoth Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier (18-25 Jeep Wrangler JL)
Questionable QC
Missing hardware, such as some of the stainless steel rivets for accent hardware. Tire carrier sags to one side and you must lift it up to secure to latch.
Dec 12, 2019
Review shared from Deegan 38 by Mammoth Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier (18-25 Jeep Wrangler JL)
Missing Hardware Poor Instructions!!
8 hours of install and 2 trips to Lowe's ($20 ) for missing hardware was ridiculous! Now I have hardware that doesn't match and will rust. Not the easiest bumper to install, to say the least. Instructions were very poor. I love the look of the bumper once it was installed, but would really like to get the matching hardware that was missing sent to me. (4) M12 x 1.75 x 80MM Bolts, (4) Flat Washers, (2) Lock Nuts. Not too mention, the tire carrier shaft part was stripped which took about an hour to fix so that it could be installed properly.
Oct 31, 2019
Review shared from Deegan 38 by Mammoth Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier (18-25 Jeep Wrangler JL)
My review
Instructions are poor at best. Needed to do alot of adjustments after it was put together. It took me a little bit to work out the kinks, like the spare shaking after tightening it up all the time. Ended up drilling another hole for a support bolt.
Oct 29, 2019
Review shared from Deegan 38 by Mammoth Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier (18-25 Jeep Wrangler JL)
Deegan 38 Rear Bumper
Seems to be a well built bumper. Install was pretty straight forward with any mechanical skills since instructions weren’t the best. Calls out for 4 80mm bolts twice in the instructions and only provide 4. Only complaint besides the bolt issue is that it sags a little after opening and have the lift the carrier to close.
Oct 28, 2019
Review shared from Deegan 38 by Mammoth Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier (18-25 Jeep Wrangler JL)
Awesome Bumper
So the only reason I am giving this bumper 4 stars is because of some missing parts and because the instructions are not very detailed some of the stuff i had to guess how to install, took me about 4 hours to install and try to figure to install, and also no instructions on how and where to run the wires back to the tailgate.
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